It started well - great flight to Blenheim. Upon landing I discovered I was not the only Breveteer on the plane - another 4 bikes and people had joined me. Pooling our money for a shuttle into town was a great idea and we had a small amount of time to get to know each other, before parting ways at our various accommodations. Already I had discovered that my new Ground Effect 'Tardis' bike bag makes travel so easy! Motel check in complete, it was build the bike, load up and go for a test spin - all good. A restless nights sleep - my cold had gotten worse and I successfully coughed myself hoarse......oh dear.
Top Town Cinema was easy to find and the briefing went well - different vibe to last time, everyone quite relaxed and chatty. Ended up sitting with Thomas Lindup, who kept a small audience entertained until the briefing started. Also spotted World Champion adventure racer Nathan Fa'ave amongst the group.
Seymour Square - yeehaaa! Nearly ready to go! Photo Call (heaps more riders than last time - the Brevette 700km version also very popular).
As the clock in the Square struck noon, we were off - just a cruisy start really - people just slowly mounted up and got rolling.... I was happy to be well in the pack (last time I was in danger of being dropped in the first kilometre). I knew this couldn't last, as my singlespeed gear ensured I would be spun out at 30km/hr on the flats by Rarangi.
Sure enough - Rarangi signalled 'boost' time for the geared riders and off they went. I spun my way happily along, having expected this (reading Jaspers 'singlespeed' account of the 2010 version gave me inspiration and provided a great insight into singlespeeding this event).
The first of the climbs on Port Underwood Road loomed large - time for some strategic walking, catching up to another Singlespeeder (also employing the same strategy). At one point we were walking faster than the geared riders were pedalling (pretty cool!). Here's the view back to White's Bay from the top.....
Thankfully the day wasn't too hot and time passed reasonably quickly. The final big climb to the saddle took a bit, but then it was down, down, down - reaching sea level at Picton around 5.30pm (ahead of my forecast time). Refuel at the 4 Square, then rode on to Havelock, where Fish & Chips were my 8pm dinner feast. It was an easy ride then up to Pelorus Bridge (the jumping off point for the Maungatapu Track).
Reaching the DOC campground at Pelorus Bridge, I could see lights on in the Office. I pressed the buzzer - out came the Ranger, who before he had even said "hello" had blu-tacked the "Camp Full" sign up to the window. Turns out he had campers everywhere - even a bunch of cyclists in his AV Room....! No room at the Inn for this boy - my options were camp on the grass next to the toilets, or ride on & hope for a roadside bivvy spot. I chose the grass next to the toilets (actually the toilets were 100m away and the grass was a well manicured piece of lawn on the other side of the fence from the Rangers house). Bedding down at 10.15pm, happy! (I didn't even have to pay for the camping spot!).
A 5am alarm saw me up and packing - brewing a quick coffee to go with my Cookie Time Big Bikkie Breakfast. As I was muching I saw a familiar figure emerge from the toilets - Paul Smith, my friend from World Solo 2010 and creator of 'Journey' - Inspiring Riding. I'd briefly caught up with him as he sailed past the day before at Rarangi. Like me, his choice of bike was different - a 'twin speed' fixie - using an eccentric bottom bracket to aid a manual shift between front chainrings. He was one of the crew that slept in the AV Room!
Underway, it was off up the Maungatapu track. Reasonably easy riding to begin with, this track climbs up & over the Bryant Range before emerging in Nelson. I was absolutely chuffed to ride all but the last 1.5km of the climb - and most of the descent (which was very steep and rocky). The legs felt good, singlespeeding was great! I was really feeling the benefit of the lighter setup!
Rolling into Nelson, Columbus Coffee the chosen refreshment stop - ahead of me the Nelson Great Taste cycle trail and a fair chunk of tarseal road into St Arnaud.
Geez it was hot! Once again Paul and a few other riders were around, we rode as a loose group until I was dropped (damn Singlespeed on flat ground!). It was entertaining to see chunks of the cycle trail next to the sea underwater (it was high tide!). What were they thinking....?
Richmond for a refreshment stop and then onto the roads to St Arnaud. Hotter that a hot thing! I suffered a little in the heat and by the time St Arnaud emerged I was done for the day. I'd picked up another rider and together we encouraged each other over the final few kilometres. Spent a great evening eating Pizza in the company of several other riders, before I piked out on camping and grabbed a bed (and a shower) at the backpackers.
4.45am alarm this time - setting out from St Arnaud in the dark, Porika Track the immediate destination. This one started out steeper and rougher than Maungatapu - and got steeper and rougher as it went on. Time for a lot more walking..... Thankfully I had company - my friend from yesterday evening, plus a couple of others. The summit was tree enclosed (lovely beech forest) before the descent began. This was rough! I elected the 'safe' option and walked a fair bit of the upper portion (come to think of it I walked a bit of the lower portion as well).... The view part way down was worth it though - Lake Rotoroa in all it's glory......
Braeburn Track up next - but not before a 'slap and dance' routine swatting sandflies as I got changed out of my thermal gear into shorts and had a quick snack. A long climb followed - although this time it was all groomed gravel road. The descent was fun - several fords giving the opportunity for a cooldown splash. Eventually the road flattened out and wound its way towards Murchison. A decent cafe stop followed, then onwards - spotting a huge number of Brevet riders at the cafe just around the corner from where I had eaten.
Jeez, getting hot though - combined with the usual sluggishness that follows a cafe eating binge, mentally I found the next few kilometres tough going. I could see a few riders ahead, but they wren't getting any closer. Stopping under the shade of a handy roadside tree, I dug out my MP3 player for a few tunes to while away the next few hours and hopefully take my mind off the heat and distance still to travel.
What followed was quite simply the best ride of my life - I have never experienced anything like it, before or since. I was a transformed man - the cadence went up considerably and the riders ahead of me became motivation. All the while the music kept pumping through my headphones, urging me on.
It wasn't long before I caught one of the riders I was with on the Porika & Braeburn tracks earlier. He looked to be flagging in the heat, so I urged him to jump in behind me. No go, so I was left to roll onwards towards Maruia Saddle on my own.
Starting the ascent of Maruia Saddle was awesome - the gradient just seemed perfectly suited to my singlespeed gearing and the beech forest I was now in was very pretty. I caught and passed a few riders and at one stage was singing aloud as I rode uphill.....nuts! The descent was enjoyable and it wasn't long before I was out of the forest and back on the tarseal heading towards Maruia Cafe. Stopping on the roadside to change to a full water bladder (and empty mine), a favorite 'windtrainer' song popped up in my headphones - the Belle Stars version of 'Iko Iko'. The funky beat and catchy lyrics had me dancing - alone, but right next to highway 6!!
Jumping back on the bike, Maruia Cafe arrived quickly. Caffeine and as much food as I dared followed. It was an awesome atmosphere - other riders were there/arrived and it was great to catch up and hear tales of people's experiences so far. Time was a ticking, though and time to ride again - this time on to Springs Junction. This arrived fairly quickly and after a quick breather I set out for Reefton.
I was now chasing the fading light as I made my way up the at times steep ascent. Still, the kilometres ticked by and the top neared. From there it was down, down, down - hence my strategy to do that 'last little bitty bitty' and get this 45km finished so that my early morning could be put to use tackling Big River & Waiuta tracks. Little did I know....
Screaming into Reefton at 9.05pm in the last of the fading twilight I did a quick circuit of the town, searching for somewhere that would be open for a quick supper. I'd eaten well all day, so only wanted a light snack of something that wasn't sugary and from a packet before I went to bed. I spied a pub that was open, so in I bowled. A Speights and a packet of potato chips were soon despatched, while waiting for a cheese & pineapple toasted sandwhich (which was pretty much all there was on offer - I thought that would fit the bill nicely...).
Setting up camp in the local campground, I prepared for an early departure, then settled snugly into my sleeping bag.
At about 1am I woke up, not feeling very flash at all....... 2 trips outside for some spontaneous ejection of my stomach contents and I was feeling even worse..... bugger!!!!
Re-awakening some hours later, I felt like I had been hit with a shovel - everything hurt. I slowly packed my gear back onto the bike and made my way into town. Assessing how I felt, I was reasonably confident I could at least get through Big River and Waiuta tracks today, holing up for the night at Ikamatua Pub or Blackball if needs be. Buying a coffee and sandwich from the Bakery, I went round the corner to a nearby reserve to consume my goodies. Unfortunately, round 2 of the tummy bug now struck - the results were not pretty at all..... double bugger!!
Cleaning myself up as best I could, I dumped the food and coffee in a nearby rubbish bin and walked the few hundred metres to the nearest motel. Riding anywhere today was completely out of the question.
The rest of the day spent in the Motel. I did manage a fish and chip dinner, which stayed down (thank goodness!). I revised my plan - I would be cutting it a bit too fine to finish the full Brevet in the 8 day time limit, so I elected to switch to the Brevette course, backtracking to Springs Junction, then down Highway 8 over the Lewis Pass to Hanmer Springs.
Up and ready the next morning, 2 pieces of toast were all I could face. The grind back out to Springs Junction tokk a while, but I got there. I was almost completely off food, but for some reason I craved Ice Cream, which I consumed with gusto. Thankfully my insides were holding together, so I set off over Lewis Pass.
Jeez, getting hot though - combined with the usual sluggishness that follows a cafe eating binge, mentally I found the next few kilometres tough going. I could see a few riders ahead, but they wren't getting any closer. Stopping under the shade of a handy roadside tree, I dug out my MP3 player for a few tunes to while away the next few hours and hopefully take my mind off the heat and distance still to travel.
What followed was quite simply the best ride of my life - I have never experienced anything like it, before or since. I was a transformed man - the cadence went up considerably and the riders ahead of me became motivation. All the while the music kept pumping through my headphones, urging me on.
It wasn't long before I caught one of the riders I was with on the Porika & Braeburn tracks earlier. He looked to be flagging in the heat, so I urged him to jump in behind me. No go, so I was left to roll onwards towards Maruia Saddle on my own.
Starting the ascent of Maruia Saddle was awesome - the gradient just seemed perfectly suited to my singlespeed gearing and the beech forest I was now in was very pretty. I caught and passed a few riders and at one stage was singing aloud as I rode uphill.....nuts! The descent was enjoyable and it wasn't long before I was out of the forest and back on the tarseal heading towards Maruia Cafe. Stopping on the roadside to change to a full water bladder (and empty mine), a favorite 'windtrainer' song popped up in my headphones - the Belle Stars version of 'Iko Iko'. The funky beat and catchy lyrics had me dancing - alone, but right next to highway 6!!
Jumping back on the bike, Maruia Cafe arrived quickly. Caffeine and as much food as I dared followed. It was an awesome atmosphere - other riders were there/arrived and it was great to catch up and hear tales of people's experiences so far. Time was a ticking, though and time to ride again - this time on to Springs Junction. This arrived fairly quickly and after a quick breather I set out for Reefton.
I was now chasing the fading light as I made my way up the at times steep ascent. Still, the kilometres ticked by and the top neared. From there it was down, down, down - hence my strategy to do that 'last little bitty bitty' and get this 45km finished so that my early morning could be put to use tackling Big River & Waiuta tracks. Little did I know....
Screaming into Reefton at 9.05pm in the last of the fading twilight I did a quick circuit of the town, searching for somewhere that would be open for a quick supper. I'd eaten well all day, so only wanted a light snack of something that wasn't sugary and from a packet before I went to bed. I spied a pub that was open, so in I bowled. A Speights and a packet of potato chips were soon despatched, while waiting for a cheese & pineapple toasted sandwhich (which was pretty much all there was on offer - I thought that would fit the bill nicely...).
Setting up camp in the local campground, I prepared for an early departure, then settled snugly into my sleeping bag.
At about 1am I woke up, not feeling very flash at all....... 2 trips outside for some spontaneous ejection of my stomach contents and I was feeling even worse..... bugger!!!!
Re-awakening some hours later, I felt like I had been hit with a shovel - everything hurt. I slowly packed my gear back onto the bike and made my way into town. Assessing how I felt, I was reasonably confident I could at least get through Big River and Waiuta tracks today, holing up for the night at Ikamatua Pub or Blackball if needs be. Buying a coffee and sandwich from the Bakery, I went round the corner to a nearby reserve to consume my goodies. Unfortunately, round 2 of the tummy bug now struck - the results were not pretty at all..... double bugger!!
Cleaning myself up as best I could, I dumped the food and coffee in a nearby rubbish bin and walked the few hundred metres to the nearest motel. Riding anywhere today was completely out of the question.
The rest of the day spent in the Motel. I did manage a fish and chip dinner, which stayed down (thank goodness!). I revised my plan - I would be cutting it a bit too fine to finish the full Brevet in the 8 day time limit, so I elected to switch to the Brevette course, backtracking to Springs Junction, then down Highway 8 over the Lewis Pass to Hanmer Springs.
Up and ready the next morning, 2 pieces of toast were all I could face. The grind back out to Springs Junction tokk a while, but I got there. I was almost completely off food, but for some reason I craved Ice Cream, which I consumed with gusto. Thankfully my insides were holding together, so I set off over Lewis Pass.
Maruia Springs Cafe was
my next stop, however the food on offer was virtually non-existent. A
piece of cheesecake, long toilet stop, then back out onto the highway I went –
beginning the climb to the summit of Lewis Pass.
Time passed – the descent
had been slow, the kilometres still to travel to Hanmer Springs high. I was
steadily feeling worse and worse. A toilet and snack stop at a random DOC
reserve and I felt slightly better. My insides were starting to protest….
Now into the rolling hills
about 40km short of Hanmer I felt really, really awful. I had run out of energy
and I really, really needed a toilet. I was also really concerned that at my
rate of travel I would be arriving in Hanmer after 9pm – and therefore unable
to purchase any food (which I knew I needed to keep going). I made a less than
discreet roadside toilet stop – best I could do.
I walked up a long hill –
no energy left to ride it. At the top a car had stopped and a couple of people
had jumped out. They introduced themselves as Kirby & Mick from Australia –
fellow Brevet riders who had made it as far as Blackball before withdrawing
from the event, hiring a car from Greymouth and going sightseeing. Their offer
of a banana was the best news I’d had for a while and I hungrily consumed.
Unfortunately my tummy had other ideas and the banana was spontaneously ejected
– narrowly missing Mick’s feet. We agreed they would drive on for 5km and if I
wasn’t right by then, I was jumping into the car with them. I knew I was in a
really bad way.
That’s how it finished for
me – picked up from the side of the road and taken to Hanmer, now out of the
event. The only glimmer of hope was the chance of a ride with Mick & Kirby
the next day to Kaikoura, where I could catch a bus back to Blenheim.
At Hamner Springs I
managed to set up camp and find food. I craved real food now, which I found at
a chargrill outfit not far from camp. Nearly falling asleep in my food several
times and several toilet visits later I had eaten all I could. Thankfully a
restful night’s sleep followed.
The following day I caught
a lift with Mick and Kirby, then hung out at Kaikoura all day, waiting for the
bus to Blenheim. That was a long day – thankfully the weather was good and I
was able to shuffle between beach, bakery and toilet.
Upon reaching Blenheim,
the cleaner at the Bus Depot toilets was witness to another ‘tummy ejection’
episode – I was definitely not well. I must have looked a right mess as I
checked into my Motel!! An ‘emergency rice’ dinner followed, then another good
sleep.
Another day – another bike
ride – yes, I had to check out of Motel and into the campground as it was now
the Marlborough Food & Wine weekend and all Motels were full. Thankfully I
was starting to recover slightly – but still very fragile and I was able to fly
home the next day.
Postscript – back home, a
course of Antibiotics and 2 weeks later I had recovered. Disappointed not to
have completed the ride (especially so as I had been going really well when I
got sick). As my Dad said “shit
happens”….. very true!!
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