Otago Rail Trail - Family Style (Feb 2013)

We could do that.” Not quite the 4 words from Sandra I had expected! The journey was about to become the adventure....

I’d earlier been thinking about our problem – how to have a decent family holiday in the South Island, camp, bike and explore, catch up with family there, all without costing a bucketload. Car hire was proving expensive! Slightly off tangent at work, I found myself drawing a line on a map. A quick ‘get directions’ search confirmed the distance was smaller than I expected. Why not forget about car hire, just take bikes and camping gear and let the journey be the adventure? Driving home from work, I was excited at the thought – 3 weeks, no car, just Sandra, Emma and Me with whatever we could carry. Would Sandra take much convincing?

Sandra’s agreement sealed the deal – to be honest I’d expected a much harder sell! The fun began as we sorted the logistics. A Child trailer suitable for Emma (age 2 & ¾) was investigated then purchased, flights booked and shuttle organised. While we never really discussed it, we decided to do the trip ‘Bikepacking’ style – carrying all our own gear and making use of whatever we found along the way, rather than using luggage transport services and pre-booking a lot of things.  The perfect excuse to hit the outdoor stores, hunting for smaller/lighter gear! The route was finalised – Shuttle from Queenstown to Clyde, build the bikes then ride the Otago Rail Trail to Middlemarch. Jump on the Taieri Gorge Train from Middlemarch to Dunedin, then a pick up from Dunedin to Sandra’s parents place at Kakanui. No rental car required! While hardly rating on the ‘gnarly singletrack’ scale, using the Otago Rail Trail meant that food and services were never too far away. Training began – all of us getting experience with the trailer, while Sandra improved her bike fitness by going riding (a lot). A number of ‘test’ camping trips were done in December, the amount of gear being used growing smaller each time.

Queenstown – a ‘postcard’ day heralded our arrival. Airport logistics sorted, it was off to our accommodation for the next 2 nights – the Novotel. Handily located very close to town and the lake meant we could be pedestrians for the first couple of days. Arriving at the hotel we were gobsmacked – a ground floor room (with a small courtyard), 200 metres from the lake and 500 metres from the CBD. As the Hotel was right next to the main swimming beach, we headed for the lake......

Lake goodness and beach fun, the Gondola experience, fantastic dining and stunning scenery summed up our time staying in Queenstown. Sunday afternoon we were relaxing at the beach (along with a lot of others...) when along comes a bunch of guys wheeling a flat-top BBQ and toting a DJ rig. The ensuing ‘pop-up’ party was great fun – fantastic dance music, pole dancing (yes, really!) and a couple of slack lining setups. People everywhere - young, young at heart, locals & tourists alike. Everyone was drinking something – but the atmosphere was just so chilled out that at no time did it feel unsafe. At 10pm (when the liquor ban kicks in), the music stopped – and people just packed up & left, putting their empties next to the rubbish bins for collection. Unreal! (Try that in Auckland – the riot squad would have turned up..... I saw 2 Police the whole evening). It became a real talking point the next morning at the Hotel breakfast!

Monday morning’s shuttle to Clyde had us a bit nervous – not because of the driving, more because all of sudden the real adventure was about to begin. We set a slowness record for unpacking the bike boxes, building the bikes and bagging/attaching all our kit. I think in the end the bike shop guys were taking bets on how long we would last.....

Underway – finally! Thankfully only a short ride today – the 8km from Clyde to Alexandra. Still took a while, though – not having completely assembled all our kit before meant that we had ‘luggage issues’. Getting lost while trying to get to the Clyde Railhead (start of trail) didn’t help much either (Clyde is not that big!!). Thankfully by the time we had done a few km on the trail we settled down and began to appreciate our surroundings.

“Are we there yet?” mode kicked in just as we reached the Alexandra end of the days trail. 8km of dead flat, dead straight travelling was over with and it was time to head to a campground. Alexandra’s selection of camping seemed a bit on the underdone side, but with tent up and (seemingly) most things accounted for we were happy (okay, tired and happy-ish). I did the Supermarket express run for dinner supplies while the girls made friends at the camp playground. Dinner began to sort itself out, albeit with a bit of frustration and some over-tired tears (we got much better at the dinner/end of day routine and by the end of the trip we were one slick operation). Emma safely in bed & Sandra resting, I began to pull apart all the gear, sort and repack in order to balance out the loads and make each days pack/unpack less time consuming. Load logistics sorted, time for bed.

Day 2, our first ‘real’ day on the trail. Breakfasted, loaded (Sandra now with the tent (5.8kg) on her Freeload rack and we were off. Today’s frustrations were the (secure) attaching of Emma’s bike to the trailer so that the foam packing did not fall out and the trailer hitch slipping. Both of these niggles eased out over the next day or two (learning which webbing strap goes where to provide secure attachment and not standing on the pedals going uphill were the fixes to the problems).

It began to get hot – having numerous photo/snack stops didn’t help speedy progress in the heat, but we were also wary of cooking Emma in the trailer. Emma was enjoying herself, already identifying that the regular Rail Trail passport stamp stops were a great opportunity for a snack and a run about. Slowly we left civilisation behind and began to appreciate the wild area we were in. Lunch time found us in a shady spot (although still really hot). All of sudden popping out onto a tarseal road at Omakau seemed an intrusion....

Omakau campground/sports field – what a fantastic find! Cheap camping (only $20), great facilities and beautiful grassy sites! Arriving at 2pm we took up the camp attendant’s suggestion that we spend some time checking out the industrial sprinkler setup that was watering the sports field. Standing on the wet grass and getting blasted by the rotating sprinkler was a fantastic way to cool down and have some quality family time. The looong walk to town (about 2km – we should have ridden) had us all famished and soon we had settled on a takeaway feast – Burger for Sandra, Toasted Sandwich for Emma and the classic Fish & Chips for me. A visit to 4 Square for tomorrow’s breakfast & lunch supplies, then the walk back to camp. Emma tucked up, Sandra & I just spending time relaxing and talking a few other campers. We were beginning to unwind, leaving behind the stresses of early in the trip and appreciate the simplicity that bikepacking brings.

Day 3 – the morning pack up taking ever – less time (learning what goes where and how) and we were underway, with Oturehua the intended destination. Today was ‘tunnel’ day, with the trip up to the Poolburn Gorge and through the 2 tunnels there providing the day’s highlight.

It also seemed to be ‘bad karma’ day – Emma grizzly and wanting to ride, us wanting the ‘get there’ and out of the heat. Emma did do some great riding on trail today, managing an uphill kilometre onwards towards the gorge.

Tunnels! I added lights and led our troupe through. Emma had a short break from the trailer and explored, the small patches of shade at each end of the tunnels providing some respite from the relentless heat. Easily the hottest day we had so far – the heat reflecting off the rock walls of the gorge increasing the temperature further. Finally clear of the gorge, a downhill(ish) run towards Oturehua along a straight that never seemed to end. ‘Are we there yet’ and a couple of ‘bad karma’ moments later, we finally arrived in Oturehua – hot, tired and a bit scratchy.

Accommodation took a bit to sort – the backpackers/camping area at the end of the village looked deserted. The girls rested in the shade while I located the owner. $40 for camping – double our previous night’s accommodation cost. Breakfast - if we wanted it (Cornflakes and Toast) - continued the overpriced theme, being $15 each. Grudgingly paying the $40 and assuring the owner we would not go near her precious cornflakes, we were directed to the ‘camping field’ – a dry, sunburnt field of stalks, with not a tree to be had - versus the lush, spacious, well watered and shady grounds of the backpackers.

Tent up and the girls resting in the shade at the backpackers, I jumped onto Sandra’s bike in my sandals and began to ride along the wide, deserted footpath the 400 metre journey to the only shop – the General Store. Mr Plod obviously had nothing to do that day – stopping his passing ute to remind me of my lawbreaking recklessness (no helmet and on footpath). Not wanting to sully his obviously impeccable record of maintaining law and order, I almost did as he instructed – electing to scoot and side saddle on the wrong side of the road for the direction I was heading, next to the kerb (I’d had that kind of day).... The much touted General Store held little joy – just bought a couple of (overpriced) Breakfast things, then wandered (I just couldn’t be bothered anymore) back to camp under the steady gaze of the overworked Mr Plod.

It seems the ‘bad karma’ day had one last treat for us – Emma having a full on melt down when it was time to leave the pub after what had been an excellent dinner in the Garden Bar area (complete with playground). Even carrying Emma (still kicking and screaming) back to camp was hard – and the tantrum continued back at camp. Finally we got Emma to settle down – walking with her back to the Pub to put away some of the toys she had been playing with there (this seemed to be the cause of the upset).

I had my own mini meltdown – I just didn’t want to do the trip anymore. The heat, the ‘hurry up mode’ and the tantrum just made me want to bail out, get a car, load up & go back to Queenstown to chill out. We weren’t really appreciating where we were – it was always ‘hurry, hurry, hurry’. Sandra talked me round and by the time sunset arrived (which was spectacular) I was feeling a little less sorry for myself (but still scratched, bleeding and a bit down).

Thankfully the next day brought a new sense of calm and purpose to our tent – we were just going to ride each day and not worry about time. If it got hot, we would find shade. If Emma wanted to ride, she could. With that in mind, off we went – the guidebook promising an uphill 6km first, before the long sweet downhill to Wedderburn & Ranfurly.

Uphill is what we got! Quite rough and hard going in places, especially so on my singlespeed hardtail, hauling the trailer. Emma coped with the bumping & bouncing easily though and despite a little anxiety (the old ‘hurry, hurry’ again) we arrived at the trail summit in good time. Emma & I posed for summit photos, before we made for a decent shady spot next to the trail for a celebratory morning tea. Another family were also there, Mum, Dad & 2 children (one slightly younger than Emma & one a bit older). They also looked laden with camping gear (so maybe we weren’t the only ones crazy enough to haul all our own stuff!). Had a bit of a chat before they rolled out, heading in the opposite direction to us. More chilling out time, then time for us to go, too.

Down, down, down! The trail getting smoother the further we descended towards Wedderburn. I (mostly) kept the descent under control, although as it smoothed I eased off the brakes, hitting 40kph in the process. Emma had taken to singing in her trailer – the descent was accompanied by ‘Old MacDonald haaaaad a faaaaarrrm’ as she bounced around in the back.

Wedderburn – explored the old Goods Shed and had a reasonable lunch stop under some pine trees. Emma enjoyed an escape from (her now very hot) trailer. The last double handful of km for the day were along a pretty straight and flat trail into Ranfurly, where we checked into camp. Hotter than a hot thing today, with the friendly camp owner directing us to a shady spot near a shelterbelt hedge to set up camp. Time to explore – the well stocked 4 Square for afternoon tea, before we all headed to the town swimming pool – indoor and partly heated, a very refreshing swim for all of us. Great way to finish off the day! Dinner and breakfast shopping done, back to camp where one of the locals reckoned the temperature had hit 37 degrees today – sizzle!

Setting out from Ranfurly on what should be our second to last day we were a little uncertain as to the night’s destination. Services for the day would be sparse, with just the promise of a cafe/hotel at Hyde – where camping/accommodation options were heavily restricted. Today marked a distinct transition in the trail – away from following a course between rocky hills towards traversing open valleys dotted with farms and green fields.

We managed to find the DOC picnic area just south of Daisybank around 1pm. Sited above a river, there was a lovely shady spot complete with DOC composting toilet. After eating a bit of food I went for a walk & discovered a track down to the river. Emma & I explored further and found a lovely riverbank, shallow river edges and a beautiful flat sandy spot on a terrace just above the river – could we camp here the night? Sandra came down and inspected and quickly agreed – it was off trail, near a toilet, peaceful, next to the river with just the right amount of shade (today was another scorcher!!). Decision made! I managed to get the bikes and trailer down the track and we quickly set up camp. We took stock of our food – enough for afternoon tea, a small dinner and breakfast, perfect! That emergency can of spaghetti was going to come in handy after all! The only thing we were short of was (clean) water – being we were back in farming country I was dubious about the river water quality. We decided I’d jump on my bike for a fast run down to Hyde, where at least I could refill all of our water bladders with clean drinking water.

Back out into the heat again – I forgot how hot it was, as under the trees by the river we had shade. Thankfully the 6km to Hyde disappeared reasonably quickly and I arrived at quite a nice cafe. I rehydrated with Powerade and a coffee, demolishing a cafe snack in the process. Just a cafe here, with a hotel (country style) attached. No camping or other options. Good call on our wilderness camp!! I loaded with water and some extra food for us all then hightailed it back to camp.

All I can really say about the evening was it was just fantastic quality family time. Just us, wilderness camping. Going to sleep with the tent door open (bug screen zipped in), looking at the stars and hearing the sound of the river made for a magic end to a special day.

It was hard the next day to leave (we did openly ponder the merits of another night here), but with a 1pm train to catch on Sunday at Middlemarch unfortunately we had to shake a leg. We stopped at the tunnels before Hyde for a short explore, then carried on to the Hyde cafe, where we did a very good job of stuffing ourselves silly. With some emergency food tucked away in our backpacks, we set out for Middlemarch. Bit of a nosey around Hyde station (by some quirk this is located 2km from Hyde township). Huge potential here, as the station building and some remaining wagons are all in good nick. Cafe/Campground business opportunity? It gave us something to talk about for the next little while (the land and buildings were for sale on trademe).

Definitely into farming country now – the trail passing through green pastures. Another station, another stamp for Emma – and another jelly snake. Yes, we’d succumbed to the lure of shameless bribery and by the time the final station before Middlemarch came around that bribery was in danger of losing its novelty value. After 5 minutes of skilled negotiation we had Emma back in the trailer and on our way.

There in the distance, we could see Middlemarch – end of the line. About 1km out we stopped, let Emma out of the trailer and the 3 of us rode our bikes together to the finish. Otago Railtrail – done! Some photos, then the all important need for food and a campsite took priority. We rode the short distance to Middlemarch camp, set up, then back onto bikes for a quick nosey around town. Not a lot here at all! Stopped for dinner at a new-looking cafe/bar, before a quick stint in the local playground, then bed.

Waking the next morning, breakfast despatched, we had some time before the 1pm train. So back to the cafe we went...... Train arrived and without too much difficulty (Emma charming the freight wagon guys) we had bikes, trailer and gear all aboard. The train trip itself was interesting – although in some respects different to what I had thought it would be. Having just spent 6 days IN the landscape, it was different being slightly removed from it to be ON the landscape, passing through it by train. Still a pretty journey though!

Arrival at Dunedin – took a little time to get ourselves re-loaded, then a 10km ride through downtown Dunedin to the beach campground at St Kilda. Roads, cars, trucks – welcome back to civilisation!

Our holiday continued – Kakanui, Waimate and finally an especially magical final few days in Wanaka, riding the Outlet and Lakeside tracks from Albert Town, as well as many trips to the lake for picnics and swims. Sadly we received news that our cat Ollee had passed away, while he was staying at Bookby Lodge. It was hard saying goodbye to our dear friend, especially from afar. I learnt that sometimes a child’s perspective is best “sorry about Ollee, Daddy. We can get another one.”

A very special journey – we have all discovered something new and truly beautiful.