We could do that.”
Not quite the 4 words from Sandra I had expected! The journey was about to
become the adventure....
I’d earlier
been thinking about our problem – how to have a decent family holiday in the
South Island, camp, bike and explore, catch up with family there, all without
costing a bucketload. Car hire was proving expensive! Slightly off tangent at
work, I found myself drawing a line on a map. A quick ‘get directions’ search
confirmed the distance was smaller than I expected. Why not forget about car
hire, just take bikes and camping gear and let the journey be the adventure? Driving
home from work, I was excited at the thought – 3 weeks, no car, just Sandra,
Emma and Me with whatever we could carry. Would Sandra take much convincing?
Sandra’s
agreement sealed the deal – to be honest I’d expected a much harder sell! The
fun began as we sorted the logistics. A Child trailer suitable for Emma (age 2
& ¾) was investigated then purchased, flights booked and shuttle organised.
While we never really discussed it, we decided to do the trip ‘Bikepacking’
style – carrying all our own gear and making use of whatever we found along the
way, rather than using luggage transport services and pre-booking a lot of
things. The perfect excuse to hit the
outdoor stores, hunting for smaller/lighter gear! The route was finalised –
Shuttle from Queenstown to Clyde, build the bikes then ride the Otago Rail
Trail to Middlemarch. Jump on the Taieri Gorge Train from Middlemarch to
Dunedin, then a pick up from Dunedin to Sandra’s parents place at Kakanui. No
rental car required! While hardly rating on the ‘gnarly singletrack’ scale, using
the Otago Rail Trail meant that food and services were never too far away.
Training began – all of us getting experience with the trailer, while Sandra
improved her bike fitness by going riding (a lot). A number of ‘test’ camping
trips were done in December, the amount of gear being used growing smaller each
time.
Queenstown –
a ‘postcard’ day heralded our arrival. Airport logistics sorted, it was off to
our accommodation for the next 2 nights – the Novotel. Handily located very
close to town and the lake meant we could be pedestrians for the first couple
of days. Arriving at the hotel we were gobsmacked – a ground floor room (with a
small courtyard), 200 metres from the lake and 500 metres from the CBD. As the
Hotel was right next to the main swimming beach, we headed for the lake......
Lake goodness
and beach fun, the Gondola experience, fantastic dining and stunning scenery
summed up our time staying in Queenstown. Sunday afternoon we were relaxing at
the beach (along with a lot of others...) when along comes a bunch of guys
wheeling a flat-top BBQ and toting a DJ rig. The ensuing ‘pop-up’ party was
great fun – fantastic dance music, pole dancing (yes, really!) and a couple of slack
lining setups. People everywhere - young, young at heart, locals & tourists
alike. Everyone was drinking something – but the atmosphere was just so chilled
out that at no time did it feel unsafe. At 10pm (when the liquor ban kicks in),
the music stopped – and people just packed up & left, putting their empties
next to the rubbish bins for collection. Unreal! (Try that in Auckland – the
riot squad would have turned up..... I saw 2 Police the whole evening).
It became a real talking point the next morning at the Hotel breakfast!
Monday
morning’s shuttle to Clyde had us a bit nervous – not because of the driving,
more because all of sudden the real adventure was about to begin. We set a
slowness record for unpacking the bike boxes, building the bikes and
bagging/attaching all our kit. I think in the end the bike shop guys were taking
bets on how long we would last.....
Underway –
finally! Thankfully only a short ride today – the 8km from Clyde to Alexandra.
Still took a while, though – not having completely assembled all our kit before
meant that we had ‘luggage issues’. Getting lost while trying to get to the
Clyde Railhead (start of trail) didn’t help much either (Clyde is not that
big!!). Thankfully by the time we had done a few km on the trail we settled
down and began to appreciate our surroundings.
“Are we there
yet?” mode kicked in just as we reached the Alexandra end of the days trail.
8km of dead flat, dead straight travelling was over with and it was time to
head to a campground. Alexandra’s selection of camping seemed a bit on the
underdone side, but with tent up and (seemingly) most things accounted for we
were happy (okay, tired and happy-ish). I did the Supermarket express run for
dinner supplies while the girls made friends at the camp playground. Dinner
began to sort itself out, albeit with a bit of frustration and some over-tired
tears (we got much better at the dinner/end of day routine and by the end of
the trip we were one slick operation). Emma safely in bed & Sandra resting,
I began to pull apart all the gear, sort and repack in order to balance out the
loads and make each days pack/unpack less time consuming. Load logistics
sorted, time for bed.
Day 2, our
first ‘real’ day on the trail. Breakfasted, loaded (Sandra now with the tent
(5.8kg) on her Freeload rack and we were off. Today’s frustrations were the (secure)
attaching of Emma’s bike to the trailer so that the foam packing did not fall
out and the trailer hitch slipping. Both of these niggles eased out over the
next day or two (learning which webbing strap goes where to provide secure
attachment and not standing on the pedals going uphill were the fixes to the
problems).
It began to
get hot – having numerous photo/snack stops didn’t help speedy progress in the
heat, but we were also wary of cooking Emma in the trailer. Emma was enjoying
herself, already identifying that the regular Rail Trail passport stamp stops
were a great opportunity for a snack and a run about. Slowly we left
civilisation behind and began to appreciate the wild area we were in. Lunch
time found us in a shady spot (although still really hot). All of sudden
popping out onto a tarseal road at Omakau seemed an intrusion....
Omakau
campground/sports field – what a fantastic find! Cheap camping (only $20),
great facilities and beautiful grassy sites! Arriving at 2pm we took up the camp
attendant’s suggestion that we spend some time checking out the industrial
sprinkler setup that was watering the sports field. Standing on the wet grass
and getting blasted by the rotating sprinkler was a fantastic way to cool down
and have some quality family time. The looong walk to town (about 2km – we
should have ridden) had us all famished and soon we had settled on a takeaway
feast – Burger for Sandra, Toasted Sandwich for Emma and the classic Fish &
Chips for me. A visit to 4 Square for tomorrow’s breakfast & lunch
supplies, then the walk back to camp. Emma tucked up, Sandra & I just
spending time relaxing and talking a few other campers. We were beginning to
unwind, leaving behind the stresses of early in the trip and appreciate the
simplicity that bikepacking brings.
Day 3 – the
morning pack up taking ever – less time (learning what goes where and how) and
we were underway, with Oturehua the intended destination. Today was ‘tunnel’
day, with the trip up to the Poolburn Gorge and through the 2 tunnels there
providing the day’s highlight.
It also
seemed to be ‘bad karma’ day – Emma grizzly and wanting to ride, us wanting the
‘get there’ and out of the heat. Emma did do some great riding on trail today,
managing an uphill kilometre onwards towards the gorge.
Tunnels! I
added lights and led our troupe through. Emma had a short break from the
trailer and explored, the small patches of shade at each end of the tunnels
providing some respite from the relentless heat. Easily the hottest day we had
so far – the heat reflecting off the rock walls of the gorge increasing the
temperature further. Finally clear
of the gorge, a downhill(ish) run towards Oturehua along a straight that never
seemed to end. ‘Are we there yet’ and a couple of ‘bad karma’ moments later, we
finally arrived in Oturehua – hot, tired and a bit scratchy.
Accommodation
took a bit to sort – the backpackers/camping area at the end of the village
looked deserted. The girls rested in the shade while I located the owner. $40
for camping – double our previous night’s accommodation cost. Breakfast - if we wanted it (Cornflakes and Toast) - continued the overpriced theme, being $15 each.
Grudgingly paying the $40 and assuring the owner we would not go near her
precious cornflakes, we were directed to the ‘camping field’ – a dry, sunburnt
field of stalks, with not a tree to be had - versus the lush, spacious, well watered and shady grounds of the
backpackers.
Tent up and
the girls resting in the shade at the backpackers, I jumped onto Sandra’s bike
in my sandals and began to ride along the wide, deserted footpath the 400 metre
journey to the only shop – the General Store. Mr Plod obviously had nothing to
do that day – stopping his passing ute to remind me of my lawbreaking
recklessness (no helmet and on footpath). Not wanting to sully his obviously
impeccable record of maintaining law and order, I almost did as he instructed –
electing to scoot and side saddle on the wrong side of the road for the
direction I was heading, next to the kerb (I’d had that kind of day).... The
much touted General Store held little joy – just bought a couple of
(overpriced) Breakfast things, then wandered (I just couldn’t be bothered
anymore) back to camp under the steady gaze of the overworked Mr Plod.
It seems the
‘bad karma’ day had one last treat for us – Emma having a full on melt down
when it was time to leave the pub after what had been an excellent dinner in
the Garden Bar area (complete with playground). Even carrying Emma (still
kicking and screaming) back to camp was hard – and the tantrum continued back
at camp. Finally we got Emma to settle down – walking with her back to the Pub
to put away some of the toys she had been playing with there (this seemed to be
the cause of the upset).
I had my own
mini meltdown – I just didn’t want to do the trip anymore. The heat, the ‘hurry
up mode’ and the tantrum just made me want to bail out, get a car, load up
& go back to Queenstown to chill out. We weren’t really appreciating where
we were – it was always ‘hurry, hurry,
hurry’. Sandra talked me round and by the time sunset arrived
(which was spectacular) I was feeling a little less sorry for myself (but still
scratched, bleeding and a bit down).
Thankfully
the next day brought a new sense of calm and purpose to our tent – we were just
going to ride each day and not worry about time. If it got hot, we would find
shade. If Emma wanted to ride, she could. With that in mind, off we went – the
guidebook promising an uphill 6km first, before the long sweet downhill to
Wedderburn & Ranfurly.
Uphill is
what we got! Quite rough and hard going in places, especially so on my
singlespeed hardtail, hauling the trailer. Emma coped with the bumping & bouncing easily though
and despite a little anxiety (the old ‘hurry, hurry’ again) we arrived at the
trail summit in good time. Emma & I posed for summit photos, before we made
for a decent shady spot next to the trail for a celebratory morning tea.
Another family were also there, Mum, Dad & 2 children (one slightly younger
than Emma & one a bit older). They also looked laden with camping gear (so
maybe we weren’t the only ones crazy enough to haul all our own stuff!). Had a
bit of a chat before they rolled out, heading in the opposite direction to us.
More chilling out time, then time for us to go, too.
Down, down,
down! The trail getting smoother the further we descended towards Wedderburn. I
(mostly) kept the descent under control, although as it smoothed I eased off
the brakes, hitting 40kph in the process. Emma had taken to singing in her
trailer – the descent was accompanied by ‘Old MacDonald haaaaad a faaaaarrrm’ as
she bounced around in the back.
Wedderburn –
explored the old Goods Shed and had a reasonable lunch stop under some pine
trees. Emma enjoyed an escape from (her now very hot) trailer. The last double
handful of km for the day were along a pretty straight and flat trail into
Ranfurly, where we checked into camp. Hotter than a hot thing today, with the
friendly camp owner directing us to a shady spot near a shelterbelt hedge to
set up camp. Time to explore – the well stocked 4 Square for afternoon tea,
before we all headed to the town swimming pool – indoor and partly heated, a
very refreshing swim for all of us. Great way to finish off the day! Dinner and
breakfast shopping done, back to camp where one of the locals reckoned the
temperature had hit 37 degrees today – sizzle!
Setting out
from Ranfurly on what should be our second to last day we were a little
uncertain as to the night’s destination. Services for the day would be sparse,
with just the promise of a cafe/hotel at Hyde – where camping/accommodation
options were heavily restricted. Today marked a distinct transition in the
trail – away from following a course between rocky hills towards traversing
open valleys dotted with farms and green fields.
We managed to
find the DOC picnic area just south of Daisybank around 1pm. Sited above a
river, there was a lovely shady spot complete with DOC composting toilet. After
eating a bit of food I went for a walk & discovered a track down to the
river. Emma & I explored further and found a lovely riverbank, shallow
river edges and a beautiful flat sandy spot on a terrace just above the river –
could we camp here the night? Sandra came down and inspected and quickly agreed
– it was off trail, near a toilet, peaceful, next to the river with just the
right amount of shade (today was another scorcher!!). Decision made! I managed
to get the bikes and trailer down the track and we quickly set up camp. We took
stock of our food – enough for afternoon tea, a small dinner and breakfast,
perfect! That emergency can of spaghetti was going to come in handy after all!
The only thing we were short of was (clean) water – being we were back in
farming country I was dubious about the river water quality. We decided I’d
jump on my bike for a fast run down to Hyde, where at least I could refill all
of our water bladders with clean drinking water.
Back out into
the heat again – I forgot how hot it was, as under the trees by the river we
had shade. Thankfully the 6km to Hyde disappeared reasonably quickly and I
arrived at quite a nice cafe. I rehydrated with Powerade and a coffee,
demolishing a cafe snack in the process. Just a cafe here, with a hotel
(country style) attached. No camping or other options. Good call on our
wilderness camp!! I loaded with water and some extra food for us all then
hightailed it back to camp.
All I can
really say about the evening was it was just fantastic quality family time.
Just us, wilderness camping. Going to sleep with the tent door open (bug screen
zipped in), looking at the stars and hearing the sound of the river made for a
magic end to a special day.
It was hard
the next day to leave (we did openly ponder the merits of another night here),
but with a 1pm train to catch on Sunday at Middlemarch unfortunately we had to
shake a leg. We stopped at the tunnels before Hyde for a short explore, then
carried on to the Hyde cafe, where we did a very good job of stuffing ourselves
silly. With some emergency food tucked away in our backpacks, we set out for
Middlemarch. Bit of a nosey around Hyde station (by some quirk this is located 2km from Hyde township). Huge potential here, as the station building and some
remaining wagons are all in good nick. Cafe/Campground business opportunity? It
gave us something to talk about for the next little while (the land and
buildings were for sale on trademe).
Definitely
into farming country now – the trail passing through green pastures. Another
station, another stamp for Emma – and another jelly snake. Yes, we’d succumbed
to the lure of shameless bribery and by the time the final station before
Middlemarch came around that bribery was in danger of losing its novelty value.
After 5 minutes of skilled negotiation we had Emma back in the trailer and on
our way.
There in the
distance, we could see Middlemarch – end of the line. About 1km out we stopped,
let Emma out of the trailer and the 3 of us rode our bikes together to the
finish. Otago Railtrail – done! Some photos, then the all important need for
food and a campsite took priority. We rode the short distance to Middlemarch
camp, set up, then back onto bikes for a quick nosey around town. Not a lot
here at all! Stopped for dinner at a new-looking cafe/bar, before a quick stint
in the local playground, then bed.
Waking the
next morning, breakfast despatched, we had some time before the 1pm train. So
back to the cafe we went...... Train arrived and without too much difficulty
(Emma charming the freight wagon guys) we had bikes, trailer and gear all
aboard. The train trip itself was interesting – although in some respects
different to what I had thought it would be. Having just spent 6 days IN the
landscape, it was different being slightly removed from it to be ON the
landscape, passing through it by train. Still a pretty journey though!
Arrival at
Dunedin – took a little time to get ourselves re-loaded, then a 10km ride
through downtown Dunedin to the beach campground at St Kilda. Roads, cars,
trucks – welcome back to civilisation!
Our holiday
continued – Kakanui, Waimate and finally an especially magical final few days
in Wanaka, riding the Outlet and Lakeside tracks from Albert Town, as well as
many trips to the lake for picnics and swims. Sadly we received news that our
cat Ollee had passed away, while he was staying at Bookby Lodge. It was hard
saying goodbye to our dear friend, especially from afar. I learnt that
sometimes a child’s perspective is best “sorry about Ollee, Daddy. We can get
another one.”
A very
special journey – we have all discovered something new and truly beautiful.
